AMGA Single Pitch Instructor
Course & Assessment

About the Program

What is the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor (SPI) Program?

The AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Program is the only nationally and internationally recognized certification for single-pitch climbing instruction in the United States. Established in 2008 and endorsed by the UIAA in 2009, it trains and certifies instructors to teach rock climbing in a single-pitch outdoor setting, covering risk management, technical systems, and instructional techniques.

The certification is widely recognized by land managers, employers, insurance providers, scout organizations, schools, camps, and guide services nationwide.

Who is this program for?

The SPI program is designed for experienced climbers who want to teach or guide others in single-pitch terrain. It’s a great fit for:

•       Current or aspiring professional rock climbing guides and instructors

•       Camp counselors, scout leaders, and youth program staff

•       Teachers and instructors running school, university, or institutional climbing programs

•       Parks & recreation staff and therapeutic program professionals

•       Recreational climbers who want to deepen their technical skills and safety knowledge

What does “single pitch” mean for the purposes of this program?

In the context of the SPI program, a single-pitch climb is one climbed without intermediate belays, on terrain with no technical difficulties on approach or retreat (i.e., no route-finding, scrambling, or technical navigation required). The SPI does not address lead climbing instruction, multi-pitch terrain, or complex approach and descent environments — those are covered in higher-level AMGA programs.

How does the SPI Program fit into the broader AMGA system?

The SPI is the entry point in the AMGA’s Rock Discipline training pathway. After completing SPI, instructors can advance to the Multi-Pitch Instructor (MPI) or Rock Guide Course (RGC) — the latter being the professional guiding credential. Earning any higher-level AMGA certification automatically renews your SPI certification for another three years.

The SPI Course

What is covered in the three-day SPI Course?

The SPI Course is a 27-hour field-based training program. All AMGA-approved providers teach the same standardized curriculum, which includes:

•       Introduction to the AMGA, its certification pathway, and the professional code of ethics

•       Climbing equipment: selection, inspection, and care

•       Knots and hitches: figure-8s, bowlines, clove, munter, mule, MMO, friction hitches, and more

•       Instructor and student belay techniques, including assisted-braking devices

•       Institutional anchor building and site management (top- and base-managed sites)

•       Rock protection: natural anchors, passive and active gear placement

•       Lowering, raising, and releasable rappel systems

•       Assistance and self-rescue skills

•       Teaching techniques: lesson planning, communication, and working with diverse groups

•       Risk management and group management strategies

•       Leave No Trace (LNT) principles and climbing site conservation

Days typically run 9 hours each. Expect a fast-paced, information-rich experience — bring a notebook.

Does the SPI Course result in a certification?

No. The course is the prerequisite for the separate SPI Assessment (exam), but does not confer certification by itself. You will receive a written evaluation at the end of the course and will be well-prepared to practice and eventually test. Every participant also receives a one-year associate AMGA membership.

What are the prerequisites for the SPI Course?

The AMGA sets the following minimum requirements. Please note these are absolute minimums — most successful candidates exceed them significantly:

•       At least 18 years old at the time of the course

•       At least 12 months of prior outdoor climbing experience

•       Active trad lead climbing experience (leader placing their own protection)

•       Minimum of 15 traditionally led rock routes (any grade)

•       Able to climb 5.8 comfortably on top rope

•       Able to set up anchors, belays, and rappels without guidance

•       Genuine interest in instructing novices in a single-pitch setting

If you’re unsure whether you meet these requirements, reach out to us before registering. We’re happy to help you honestly assess your readiness.

Do I need to be an AMGA member to take the course?

You must register as an AMGA Professional Member before or at the time of enrollment. AMGA membership is not required to sign up, but you’ll need active membership to participate and to hold your certification once earned. Your course fee includes a one-year associate AMGA membership if you don’t already have one.

Is there pre-course work I need to complete?

Yes. The AMGA requires all SPI Course candidates to complete eLearning modules before the first day of the course. Plan for approximately 3 hours to work through all modules. You’ll receive access instructions after enrollment. Completing eLearning is required — candidates who haven’t finished it may not be permitted to participate.

It’s also strongly recommended that you review and practice knots beforehand (figure-8s, bowlines, clove hitch, munter, mule, MMO, prussik, auto-block, and klemheist). The course moves quickly, and fluency with the basics will help you keep up and get more out of the experience.

Do I need to bring my own gear?

Yes — and this is a hard prerequisite, not a suggestion. All SPI participants must arrive with their own full climbing kit. Bringing and using your own gear is part of what the program evaluates. You will receive a detailed AMGA gear list after enrollment. All gear will be inspected on the first morning of the course and must be in serviceable condition. Please mark everything clearly.

What is the course price, and what does it include?

The SPI Course is $695. This covers instruction and a copy of the required course text, the AMGA Single Pitch Manual by Bob Gaines and Jason D. Martin. It does not include personal climbing equipment, food, or accommodations — you are responsible for arranging your own meals and lodging for the duration of the program. Baraboo offers a range of camping, hotel, and rental options close to the park.

How many students are in each course?

We cap SPI Courses at 6 students. This small group size ensures you get individualized feedback and plenty of hands-on practice time throughout the three days.

Where do courses take place?

All of our SPI Programs take place at Devil’s Lake State Park in Baraboo, Wisconsin — the Midwest’s premier rock climbing destination, with over 1,600 documented routes on world-class quartzite bluffs. The variety of terrain makes it an excellent environment for SPI training.

The SPI Assessment (Exam)

What is the SPI Assessment?

The SPI Assessment is the two-day (minimum 16 hours) pass/fail certification exam. Candidates who pass earn the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor credential, valid for three years. The Assessment evaluates four domains: climbing movement, technical skills, teaching ability, and group management skills.

Is the Assessment separate from the Course?

Yes — the Assessment is a distinct, separately-priced program. While it’s possible to take the Assessment immediately after the Course (if you meet the exam prerequisites), the AMGA strongly recommends spending 6–12 months practicing before attempting the exam. Most successful candidates practice for 3–6 months between the Course and Assessment. Rushing into the exam before you’re truly ready rarely goes well.

What are the prerequisites for the SPI Assessment?

In addition to holding a current AMGA Professional Membership, you must:

•       Have successfully completed an AMGA SPI Course within the past two years (or hold a current SPI certification within one year of expiration, for recertification candidates)

•       Have traditionally led a minimum of 40 rock climbing routes, including at least 15 routes completed after your most recent SPI Course or exam

•       Have a significant number of those routes at 5.6 or harder, on a variety of rock types and in varied locations

•       Be capable of comfortably leading 5.6 traditional routes (placing your own protection)

•       Be capable of comfortably climbing 5.8 on top rope

A few important notes on the route requirement: all routes must have been led clean by the candidate, completed within four years of the exam date, and multi-pitch routes count as one route regardless of pitch count. The requirement is 40 routes, not 40 pitches.

What does the two-day Assessment look like?

The exam takes place at a single-pitch area with a selection of traditional routes in the 5.6–5.8 range. Day one typically focuses on technical skills: anchor building, leading a traditional climb, rock movement, lowering and raising systems, base- and top-managed assistance, releasable rappels, and terrain management. Day two gives candidates the opportunity to instruct real beginner climbers at the crag for an entire day — planning curriculum, choosing routes, and running a safe, efficient, and enjoyable climbing day from start to finish.

What is the Assessment price?

The SPI Assessment is $495. Like the course, it is capped at 6 candidates.

What happens if I don’t pass?

The Assessment is pass/fail. Candidates who receive a “not pass” result are not precluded from retaking the exam; they may sign up for a future Assessment session. Your written evaluation will identify areas for improvement. Incomplete marks (e.g., due to weather or a genuine emergency during the exam) may be eligible for a make-up arrangement — contact us if this applies to you.

Certification & Renewal

How long is SPI certification valid?

SPI certification is valid for three years, as long as you maintain an active AMGA Professional Membership and hold an appropriate first aid certification for the terrain where you work.

Do I need first aid certification to take the course or exam?

No — first aid certification is not a prerequisite for the SPI Course or Assessment. However, once certified, you must hold appropriate medical certification to legally operate as an SPI. The specific level required (e.g., Wilderness First Responder, Wilderness First Aid) depends on the requirements of the guide service you work for and the land management agency overseeing your area. It is your responsibility to maintain that certification.

How do I renew my SPI certification?

Current SPIs can renew by retaking and passing the SPI Assessment within one year of their certification expiration date. Alternatively, completing any higher-level AMGA certification (Rock Guide, Multi-Pitch Instructor, etc.) automatically renews your SPI for another three years. If your SPI Course is more than two years old and you have not yet passed an Assessment, you will need to retake the SPI Course before attempting the exam again.

Our Instructors

Who teaches the SPI Programs at Devils Lake Climbing Guides?

Our SPI programs are led by seasoned guest instructors, each with over 50 SPI programs taught. Both are approved AMGA SPI Providers — vetted and endorsed by the AMGA to teach the standardized SPI curriculum and facilitate official assessments.

Elaina Arenz is an AMGA Certified Rock Guide, Apprentice Alpine Guide, and AMGA SPI Provider Trainer (Level 2) — one of only a small number of instructors nationally authorized to train other SPI providers. She has been instrumental in shaping the AMGA’s affinity programming for women and people of color, and owns and operates New River Mountain Guides at the New River Gorge, WV.

Jon Richard is an AMGA-certified instructor and operator of Vertical Voyages, with a long track record of SPI instruction across a variety of terrain and student populations.

Scheduling & Registration

When do courses run?

We offer one SPI Course and one SPI Assessment each in April, May, and October — six programs total per year. Spring and fall are ideal seasons at Devil’s Lake, and the schedule is designed so that an Assessment precedes each Course, allowing candidates who are exam-ready to test before the next course cohort begins.

2026 SPI Course Dates

•       April 27–29 — Elaina Arenz

•       May 23–25 — Jon Richard

•       October 2–4 — Jon Richard

2026 SPI Assessment Dates

•       April 25 & 26 — Elaina Arenz

•       May 21 & 22 — Jon Richard

•       September 30 & October 1 — Jon Richard

Can I take the Assessment immediately after the Course?

It is technically possible if you already meet all Assessment prerequisites (including the 40-route requirement) before the Course begins. However, our Assessment sessions are scheduled before, not after, each corresponding Course week, so same-week Course + Exam combinations are not possible in our current schedule. We recommend planning for 3–6 months of practice between the two, as the AMGA and most experienced providers advise.

What is the cancellation and refund policy for SPI programs?

All SPI Course and Assessment registrations are non-refundable. Because these are small, limited-enrollment programs, your spot cannot easily be filled on short notice, and our instructors commit significant preparation time in advance. We strongly recommend purchasing trip insurance before enrolling to protect your investment in the event of illness, injury, or an unavoidable schedule change.

If we cancel a session due to low enrollment or instructor emergency, you will be offered a transfer to another available session or a full refund of your program fee.

Is there a minimum number of participants required to run a program?

Yes — a minimum of 3 participants is required for a program to run. If enrollment falls below this threshold, we will contact you as early as possible to offer a transfer or refund.

I can’t make any of the scheduled dates. Can I arrange a private program?

Possibly — get in touch with us to discuss availability. Private SPI programs require a minimum of 3 participants.

Still Have Questions?

We’re happy to help you figure out whether the SPI program is the right fit and whether you’re ready to enroll.

You can also visit the AMGA’s official SPI Program page at amga.com for the complete program handbook, gear lists, climbing resume templates, and current AMGA membership registration.