Warrior's Way
Groundbreaking Mental Training For Lead ClimbingFalling Commitment Clinic for Sport Climbers
For sport climbing leaders interested in developing focus, clarity, and commitment for more enjoyable, successful leading.
Governor Dodge State Park
tuition $275
Dates:
Monday, September 11, 2023
Falling Commitment for Sport Climbers directly addresses falling to help sport climbers improve commitment. We will practice falling progressively - taking small falls, and increasing distance as you are comfortable - followed by movement, breathing, resting, and body/mind awareness exercises. Finally, students apply everything to lead a goal route. Students leave understanding how to take appropriate risks leading sport climbing routes and how to commit to those risks.
prerequisites
Ability to top-rope 5.9 in a climbing gym with no falls
Previous sport lead climbing and lead belaying experience
Climb indoors/outdoors at least 1-2 times per week
At least 6 months of continuous climbing experience (you climb at least monthly) within the last year
Logistics
Meet at 7:30 AM at Governor Dodge State Park. Students will be provided with exact rendezvous details upon registration. We’ll hike about 10 minutes into a sport climbing area, make basecamp, then commence with the day’s activities. Plan for a full day out, with a return to the parking area around 3:30 PM
Suggested Preparation
Read Espresso Lessons, by Warrior’s Way founder Arno Ilgner.
equipment
Bring usual sport climbing equipment, including shoes, harness, helmet, belay device, dynamic rope and draws. We can provide helmets for those who do not own them.
curriculum
Give a dynamic (cushioned) belay
Break a climb into smaller risk events
Assess risks effectively & commit deliberately
Distinguish between “no” and “yes” fall zones & engage appropriately
Engage “no” and “yes” fall zones appropriately
Improve breathing and awareness of body and mind
Rest effectively
Create flow and momentum
Reduce fear while climbing
Trad Mental Camp - Psychological Training for Traditional Lead Climbing
For trad climbing leaders who want to be more comfortable falling and pushing their abilities while on lead.
Devil’s Lake State Park
tuition $475
Dates:
Sat & Sun, September 9 - 10, 2023
This 2-day trad climbing course aims at developing better mental focus for leading traditional climbing routes. To accomplish this, we will develop trust in our gear, and in our ability to jam and find good stances. We’ll develop this trust by progressively falling on gear (with a top rope backup if desired), moving continuously when jamming, quickly and precisely placing gear, and improving mental focus through application of the Warrior’s Way principles. You’ll leave knowing how to take appropriate risks on trad routes and how to execute leads with improved mental focus.
prerequisites
Able to lead 5.8 sport routes, or top-rope 5.9 with no falls
Climb indoors/outdoors at least 1-2 times per week
At least 6 months of continuous climbing experience within the last year
Some experience following or leading trad routes
Logistics
Meet each day at 7:30 AM at Devils Lake State Park. Students will be provided with exact rendezvous details upon registration. We’ll hike about 15-20 minutes into a trad climbing area, make basecamp, then commence with the day’s activities. Plan for a full day out, with a return to the parking area around 3:30 PM.
Suggested preparation
Read Espresso Lessons, by Warrior’s Way founder Arno Ilgner.
equipment
Bring usual trad climbing equipment including shoes, helmet, harness, trad rack, dynamic rope and draws. We can provide helmets for those who do not own them.
curriculum
Efficiently place and assess trad protection
Progressively trust trad gear by falling on it (with toprope backup if desired)
Effectively assess risks and engage with appropriate risks
Improve hand and foot jamming skills
Distinguish and utilize good stances and rest positions
Improve commitment and mental focus
Improve safety awareness
We will not be covering:
Basic trad climbing skills
Anchor building
Multi-pitch transitions
About Jon Richard
Jon is the owner and founder of Vertical Voyages based in St. Louis, MO. In 2008, Jon became a Warrior’s Way trainer and since has taught clinics, both indoor and outdoor throughout the United States.
Jon’s approach helps clients address the limitations created by the mind and learn to use their attention in powerful way. Being intentional and focusing attention properly helps them to know the difference between healthy fear and phantom fears. Knowing the difference helps them enjoy climbing more and take appropriate risks.
Jon is an AMGA Certified Rock Guide and also teaches clinics for the American Alpine Club. He is an AMGA Single-Pitch Instructor (SPI) Provider.